Inca Empires - Cusco & Macchu Picchu

The route from Puno to Cusco followed a spectacular river valley, with several groups of pink flamingoes, surrounded by mountains that influenced the weather with build up of thunder clouds that often threatened our path and storms and showers in the distance.

Typical of weather pattern in the altiplano region was clear and warm in the morning and then short torrential downpours in the afternoon. We were heading into rainy season where downpours were brief and drenching as opposed to our day long miserable drizzle and rain in Brasil! We had 3 days cycling 400km to Cusco and the first day brought the typical weather, farmland scenes and distant snowcapped mountains. We stayed in Ayaviri, a small industrial market town with a beautiful cathedral and plaza. Unfortunately it was where I caught a bad case of gastro, so I had to enjoy the next 2 days in a sleepy haze in the truck and missed out on 2 stunning cycling days - some long gradual climbs to 4350m, rolling hills, Inca ruins and traditional villages. It was still stunning as we wizzed past in the truck but not the same feeling with sun on your back and wind in your face, seeing expressions on local faces and smelling fresh mountainous air! There will be more cycling days like these, most important was to get well for Cusco, gourmet, I mean Inca capital of South America and our 2 day Macchu Picchu trip!

Cusco is a fabulous city, whilst the centre is touristy, it is also also beautiful, our hostel has great views over tiled roofs down to main plaza with beautiful church, cathedral and historical buildings. There are some fantastic restaurants, great shopping and good museums although I didnt quite get to the museums! We had 3 rest days in Cusco, the first day was spent walking around the town, enjoying the architecture, cobbled streets, some shopping, mostly just looking and a relaxing lunch.

I then took a 2 day trip to Macchu Piccu "The Lost City of the Incas" with 8 other cyclists from the group. Our trip took us through the scenic Sacred Valley, stopping at a llama farm and textile centre, archaelogical sites of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, and stop for lunch at Urubamba.

The stunning train ride from Ollantaytambo took 1.5hours through the Vilcanote River Valley with stunning views of the river, towering mountains and rain forest.

Arriving in Aquas Caliente, the base from which Macchu Picchu is visited, which is known for its hot springs, and otherwise is filled with hotels, restaurants and shops. We had an early departure in the morning to catch 5.30am bus up to the Macchu Picchu site, the bus snakes up the mountain with the rain forest below and the mountains towering around and as you ascend, you feel you are heading for the clouds. There are many visitors obscuring ones views but this doesnt take away from the impressive Inca site. Built in 15th Century by the Incas for purposes not confirmed (several theories refer to agricultural testing, religious or prison site) and not discovered and hence plundered by the Spanish, but left for rain forest to cover it. Whilst previous explorers came across it, it was brought to the world's attention by American historian Hiram Bingham in 1911. We spent the morning wandering around the ruins and then hiked up Huayna Picchu for some more impressive views of the site. I had always wanted to do the Inca trail and visit Macchu Picchu, and whilst I did not have the time to do the 4 day trail this visit, I now feel more inspired and eager to hike this beautiful region and country and I am certain that Macchu Picchu would be as impressive on a second visit!

Bolivia - escape to the Rain forest

I left La Paz feeling I hadnt given it a chance! A large sprawling city built in a valley at 3600m with 2mil inhabitants, it is the highest capital city in the world. As we wandered through the cobbled steep streets, to coin a phrase, "it was an assault to the senses" - one can be overcome by the diesel fumes, sewerage and human excrement smells, but also by the crumbling Spanish colonial architecture, the traditionally dressed women selling everything from llama foetuses (good housewarming present), to snickers to fake North Face jackets, not to mention the llama wool jerseys, bright textiles and internet cafes! We were stayiung near "Gringo Alley" so plenty of opportunity to book a tour (jungle, trek, bike the worlds most dangerous road), find a hostal, restaurant or decide on which souveneir to buy (all the stalls sold the same jerseys, bags, toys, jewellery etc). Finding something unique was difficult and came with a hefty price tag!
From a cultural perspecitve, I did manage a visit to the Coca Museum - quite fascinating history and basic exhibitions of the story of the coca leaf and the only musuem open on Sun arvie!
In pursuit of quieter time and to get back in touch with nature, I decided to take a side trip to Coroico, 100kms from La Paz, set in lush tropical mountainous area - advertised for its tranquility and so I had set my mind on a relaxing day by the pool at a quiet hostel with beautiful gardens. On arrival in Coroico, I was pleasantly surprised by annual festival in main plaza with several bands, dancing with men, women and children in traditional colourful costume and copious amounts of beer being consumed!


As a storm and ominous sky was threatening my lazing by the pool, I opted for a cheapy hotel and settled into sheltered ringside seats of procession at pizzeria on plaza and joined in the celebration with several ice cold beers! The festivities ground to a halt when torrential downpours started but I was quite comfortable and dry. A little rain wasnt goint to sopt the party, once the rain dissipated, the bands and dancing resumed. Bolivians sure know how to party!

I had decided to take some time out from the cycle group and set off on a 3 day Jungle tour which entailed cruising down a number of rivers including the Beni river whcih feeds into Amazon basin, walks in rain forest and camping on the banks of the river. We were a small international group of 11 gringos and 7 Bolivian staff. We first started with a long drive along a continuation of the "Death Highway" with stunning scenery and dizzying heights. The boat was a long boat with wooden planks as seats but quite comfortable for appreciating the flora, fauna and birdlife along the river banks and suitable for the shallow sections of the river and odd rapid!



We enjoyed several walks in the rain forest, cooled off with swims in river and waterfall and a highlight was a canopy zip line tour that was exhilirating once I overcame my fear of heights suspended on platforms 200m above ground, the scenery looking over the forest canopy was spectacular! We cruised along Madidi National Park where there are puma, jaguar, wild boar, armiadillo, etc but unfortunately they did not appear for us, only tarantula, capybarra (large rodent like creatures), butterflies, frogs and plenty of birds. Waking up to the sounds of the rainforest was amazing....reminded me of relaxation tapes one hears enjoying a massage / bliss, but no masseur on tour!

We ended in Rurrenabaque where we stayed one night and enjoyed a night with new friends all of which were heading for Pamapas tours in Amazon basin whilst I caught an early morning flight on a 19 seater plant - a surprisingly smooth ride back up to La Paz. I had a few hours to spare and managed to enjoy some more sights, squares and museums (Ethnology a highlight) before catching bus for 7 hr trip to Puno, Peru to join up with cycle group.
I was feeling quite sad to leave Bolivia, a beautiful country with friendly people and stunning scenery and still somewhat untouchedby mass tourism and therefore cheap!

Salt Flats and into Bolivia

We had some really tough days out of San Pedro de Atacama heading to Bolivia border, involving some significant elevation gains and as is common in desert conditions, some strong winds!
I can break the first day´s 133kms into 4 sections – 1st section involved a climb at 8km point and then a further climb from 15km to 35km, which was slow but rewarding, reaching an altitude of 3450m, and taking about 3 hours! 2nd section was an exhilarating downhill and long flat of 30km, taking only 1 hour to lunch. 3rd section after lunch was a straight 30km into a head wind, tough and I managed to stick it out as the 4th section we made an about turn and had the wind behind us for the remaining kms to camp, a quiet road passing the largest open pit copper mine in the world!
The second day broke me…the wind stayed with us and was a steady uphill from camp (at 2500m) with a blinding headwind practically the whole way to lunch at 65kms and 3500m altitude. As I reached the 50km mark, I knew I didn’t have the energy or inclination to finish the day, but lunch was not far, and at 60km we cruised downhill and enjoyed lunch at the foothills of a smoking volcano (San Pedro Volcano). An enjoyable drive, with magnificent views of the surrounding mountains, and then descending into Salar de Acatan, where the winds blew salt and dust from all directions. We camped that night in the shelter of some ruins next to a lake on the Salar with mountains silhouetted in the water, flamingos feeding on algae and the odd vicuna in the vicinity! A freezing cold night at 3500m and relentless winds!



We had an awesome ride on our last day in Chile, a good dirt road, starting with a 4km climb, and then a long rocky descent along Salar de Carcot, surrounded by mountains, passing vicuna, another 5km ascent and then descent to Bolivia - another new country! An easy border crossing and with 2 local Bolivian guides (Saul Snr and Saul Jnr) we made our way across Salar Chiguana to our salt hostel in San Juan - awesome place and the first experience of great Bolivian hospitality!


We were very excited to be heading to Salar de Uyuni, the largest salt flats in the world.....but first we had 45kms on killer dirt, sand and rock to reach it! And it was constantly teasing us on the horizon!



At last, Salar de Uyuni, we almost kissed the salt, felt like this huge beach or frozen lake for those Northerners! We had 10km to lunch....exhausted and starved! We were slightly worried about the wind with a further 70km on the salt lake after lunch, after 35kms we stopped for coke at Isla de Pescadora, a coral and cacti covered island, with plenty of land cruisers with tourists parked nearby! And then a beautiful tail wind pushed us the last 35km at about 35km/hr along the smooth salt surface with the sun starting to set.....magical! A long tough day but one of the Highlights of the tour!!!



It was sad to be leaving the Salar de Uyuni and fortunately we had a short day, starting on the salt flats, with Vulcan Yupuna towering over us, heading up and over the hills, passing small farming villages (potatoes, quinoa and llama)and back down to the salt flats. We stayed at a comfortable eco lodge at Salinas (Garci Mendoza) with fantastic hosts providing traditional Bolivian meal accompanied by some very drinkable Bolivian Vino Tinto!






So far, we are loving the beauty of the landscape, the friendliness of the people and the fact that there is significant evidence of traditional dress and ways! Still more to come... Challapata, Oruro, La Paz and Lake Titicaca, until then Adios!

Atacama Desert and San Pedro

We completed the last section in Antofagasta, Northern Chile, and enjoyed a rest day on a day when the city was celebrating a cultural festival, with the main square filled with entertainers, musicians and artists. Rest days continue to be filled with shopping for necessities (warm clothes, chocolates, wine, etc), enjoying meals in restaurants, catching up with friends on email and Antofagasta afforded some diversity with purchases of English books and a festival to enjoy!
It was time to leave the coast and back into the desert. Not surprising then that we had some decent climbs from the coast, a good stretch along Hway 5 (so glad to leave this highway!) and a couple of days of climbing in desert heat and gaining in altitude. We enjoyed two nights of desert camping, exposed to the wind but flanked by Andes mountain range, so rewarded with spectactular scenery, sunsets and awesome starlit skies – just beautiful!


Our day into San Pedro de Atacama was just like an additional rest day, due to some logistical issues in the previous night´s camping, the decision was made to truck us all along the horrendous 100km dirt road and drop us and bicycles and Valee de Lunar (Valley of the Moon). Fabulous decision, we spent several hours cruising the valley, with Ricardo as our guide providing insight into geological phenomenon. The area is a highlight of the San Pedro area with magnificent rock formations, sand dunes, crystal filled river beds and spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and valley.


Descending into San Pedro is like arriving at an oasis, a traditional village set in a fertile valley, that is a fantastic tourist trap with amazing places to stay, to eat, to shop and plenty of tour operators taking willing tourists to the many sights in the area. The choices are endless, star gazing, mountain biking (I think not, need to rest), volcano trekking (again, need to rest), sand boarding, thermal springs and Tatio geysers. Despite the need to rest, I opted for
a) the Star tour, a 2 and half hour tour, with a local French astronomer at his house in the desert with an entertaining account of astronomy, the night sky and phenomenal views of the sky through rather large telescopes, AND
b) the Tatio Geysers, a 4am pick up and 2 hour drive to the geysers at 4300m altitude, in order to witness them at their smoking best, i.e. at sunrise when the air is cold - it was freezing at -8deg celsius! A fantastic trip with stops on the way back at thermal pools (yes I swam, it was awesome, and soothing for tired legs), altiplano village (viewed and then tasted llama), cactus filled valleys, and vicuna photo opportunities!
And just to keep going, enjoyed delicious evening meal at one of the many fine restaurants with some of the morning tour group, and being one of the last nights in Chile, accompanied with a few pisco sours!
A magical place and definitely one to return to one day!!

Chile Coast and Desert - another Highlight

After a wonderful rest day in Caldera, an inordinate amount of time spent gorging on a scrumptious seafood lunch, the village being known for its seafood (notably scallops), I had one of my best cycling days!!
We headed out on Highway 5 in partly cloudy, windless conditions, a flat and a puncture before lunch could not marr the day. We had the sparkling azure waters of the Pacific on the left and varying desert/mountainous terrain on the right, undulating hills, nothing too strenuous and small seaside villages dotting the coastline! As the sky cleared and the wind was on our backs, the day was just getting better, a rest stop had the bonus of seals and pelicans sighiting, and then we entered Parque National Pan de Azucar. Absolutely stunning beaches, deserted and unspoilt, and a quiet road winding along the coastline affording panoramic views at every stretch! We were camping on the beach at Piqueros campsite, enjoyed walking and stretching on the beach, and delicious salmon for dinner. Stunning sunset and sound of the waves to fall asleep too. Peaceful and momentous....our half way mark....I couldnt think of a better place to celebrate or rather reflect on reaching an important milestone!







We had a further day riding through the Parque, with mesmerising desert mountainous scenery, heading inland and into a headwind...onto Highway 5 and a 10km climb...tough but still feeling energised. After 65km on higway, we turned back to the coast, downhill through a canyon with ocean breeze cooling our faces, and then a spectacular "bush" beach camp!
It was time for a break from the spectacular Chilean coastline and time for some desert, which meant a tough 25km climb up and over the coastal mountain range....dusty day with the road mainly under construction, and once the ocean mist had cleared, a stifling hot day. I bailed after lunch - a good decision as once the climb was over, the wind turned into a headwind all the way to camp. The desert camp was amazing, once the wind died down around 5pm, we enjoyed a delicious asada (bbq) and then spectacular full moon rising!

So, what have you been up to?

So, what have you been up to?

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