Galapagos Islands - a diving mecca!

The last volcanic themed excursion was to be my grand finale! Galapagos archipelago.. a week of scuba diving on a liveabourd boat, Sky Dancer. Wow, what a trip of a lifetime! The boat visited the islands of Wolf and Darwin, where it is possible to see: large schools of hammerheads, galapagos sharks, white tip and black tip reef sharks, turtles, dolphins, sea lions, barracuda, tuna, plenty of smaller fish....and then what has proved to be more elusive, WHALE shark!
I await a fellow diver's video of our top sightings on land and in the water ...until then , here are some tasters!

Sky Dancer

Giant tortoise

Marine iguana

Galapagos Fur Sea lion

Whale shark

Dolphin

Dolphin at Darwin Arch

Hammerhead shark

Green turtle

Eagle rays

Galapagos penguin

Ecuador - Valley of Volcanoes

Not one to sit around for long without doing something, and having spent a day in Quito old town, marvelling at the beautiful squares, churches and restaurants, I took myself out of Quito to a small hacienda hostel in the valley of the volcanoes about an hour from Quito. The intention was to climb Cotopaxi, the highest active snowcapped volcano in the world! As it was 5800m above sea level, it was necessary to do an acclimatisation climb...Illinizas Nord... at 5126m, it was a climb to be taken seriously! With warm clothes, waterproofs and plastic snow boots we were a group of 6 and a guide. The day started beautifully and the drive to the national park afforded clear views of Cotopaxi. The 5 hour climb started steady, not too steep, interesting flora before turning steep and loose shale requiring some scrambling. We pulled on waterproof clothing for the final rocky section and at this point I was glad for the uncomfortable clumsy "ski" boots as we crossed the snow line and with ropes attached we made final ascent. We could all feel the altitude with shortness of breath and some suffering from headaches but the view as was worth any discomfort, with clear views of Illinizas Sud (an eruption many years ago split the volcano into 2 peaks) and green lakes below. It then started to rain, then hail and snow and with first sounds of thunder, we needed to make a speedy descent, with me in the lead, it was 5 point scramble down the rocky section with several cms of snow falling in a short time. The shale section was easy and quick to descent however our speedy descent resulted in more serious headaches developing to our surprise. The rain held off until we arrived at the start point and then continued as appeared the normal trend for several hours into the night. I made the decision not to continue to climb Cotopaxi as cold and wet conditions were starting to take their toll on the body.... time to rest.....





A day trip was necessary to to get to Lake Quilatoa, a large aquamarine crater lake, which was formed by a massive volcanic eruption 350 years ago. The intense force of the eruption resulted in a large earthquake creating a spectacular canyon in the surrounding country side. One can walk the circumference of the lake in 4 hours or as we chose to do walk down the walls of the crater to the spring fed lake in 40mins and as I was resting, I caught a ride up on a mule! Well worth $5, quite relaxing and comfortable!


En route to Quilatoa, we stopped at Thursday market where surrounding villages congregate to sell livestock and pretty much everything else. It is one of the largest markets in Ecuador for the locals, altho it has now also a tourist attraction, it was fascinating to watch locals in their traditional clothes (eating traditional ice cream??) and observing the products for sale... llama, cow, pig, sheep, guinea fowl, fish, fruit and vegetables, and only a few souvenirs!! One needs to head to the largest tourist market in Otavalo but unfortunately I didn't quite manage to get there!

Ecuador - the end of an epic cycle tour!

It is a little sad to be stating that leaving Peru was something I was really looking forward to... we had been there for more than 30 days and it was time for some new cycling experiences, a new country and the end of the tour. After an awesome route through a river canyon, with rocky roads, pitchblack tunnels and surrounding canyon walls closing in with a narrower canyon for the river and road to traverse. We then followed the uninsipiring Peruvian coast for a few days, picture chicken farms, littered roadside, half built houses, dark desert scenery. Fllowing the road inland where the terrain changed to 'african bush-like hillside', it was hot and hilly but we were heading to Ecuador.
We crossed the border after a few shorter days and then entered stunning rain forest terrain! One of my favourite sections of the tour started from Loja after a typical rest day (you know the drill by now), we had expected roadworks based on last year´s scout but the road was newly paved and whilst we started with a steep ascent it was through Podocarpus National park, known for its diversity of flora. Several bright flowers, and trees and bushes in every shade of green imaginable was appreciated from the road. It was slightly overcast which helped to keep temperatures down and we ascended along escarpment into cloud forests before a well deserved descent down to river bed which made for a leisurely afternoon ride to camp.

Our route continued along river and beside forest with the next day passing several small villages and with resultant visible destruction of natural forest for agriculture - cows and fruit farming most noticable. The 'highway' turned to dirt for about 100km and the first afternoon we covered about 20km in blistering heat with frequent stops at roadside waterfalls to cool off!

The road turned to mud and rock the next day after heavy rainfalls overnight (not uncommon in Equador) which made the next 50km really tough going. Starting a day on a steep rocky muddy hill is not easy, it is also difficult to imagine finishing a day in these conditions. The scenery is our biggest reward and I wasnt tiring of lush rain forest surroundings.

A drenching hour long downpour got me on the descent and it was pretty damn cold and then at lunch we had a find drizzle yet the staff still presented a nourishing feast of local tropical fruits, fresh bread, cheese and ham (a typical cycling day lunch)!
The next couple of days cycling I appreciated the rain forest views from the comfort of a bus (in a few hours) as I was going ahead of the group to the next rest day at Puyo where I was meeting up with my friend, Bruce, who was joining us for the last week of cycling. We had a few days relaxing in Puyo by the river and a day trip to Banos through the stunning Pastaza river valley (a tributary of the Amazon) where one can partake in several adventure activities or relax in thermal springs. We opted for a "go kart" ride to the the outskirts of the town with spectacular views of the volcano... a somewhat bumpy ride and some pushing required as we tested its power on hills we probably shouldn't have been driving on!
The last few days cycling... it didn´t seem to get any easier, even after >4 months in the saddle! First the weather turned foul...camping in the rain and cycling in the rain is not my favourite activity and no amount of cycling rain gear would keep us dry with 2 hour downpour, one could barely see the road and we needed to take care not to be swept away by water flowing like a river down the road! We then started climbing with spectacular views of the rain forest and volcanoes in the distance and so altitude started to become a big factor again. On top of that we were fighting colds and our campsite on that night was a football field...well we had to move to the schoolyard as the field was waterlogged!

Our last night on the road we spent in Pampallacta, a popular thermal springs weekend spot for quitenos (people from Quito) and a wonderful way to soak tired muscles, emerging from the baths warmed to the bone and relaxed! At this point we had 60kms of cycling left and there wre mixed feeling amongst the group. Many looked forward to reuniting with friends and family and getting back home to normal life whilst at the same time wondering hom much we would miss being on a bike every day, experiencing new sights, smells, tastes and cultures, missing our cycle companions and daily routine. And even though at times we have been frustrated, irritated, bored and even dissatisfied with our lot! But one could not ignore the feeling of excitement of having travelled 12000km across 7 couties in South America, up 95000m of elevation, peaking at 4600m altitude, over mountain passes, across deserts, salt flats, on beaches, and up the magnificent coastline, through rainforests, past waterfalls, altiplano lakes, ski slopes, volcanoes, Inca ruins, petroglyphs.... across countless rivers... past llamas, vicunas, flamingoes, pelicans, goats, sheep, cows, horses... on dirt, sandy, sealed and tar roads, and camping on side of highway, at toll booths, on beach, in desert in football fields.... in rain, sleet and wind! Phew, it has been an epic, it has been fun and it has been challenging.
But I digress, the last day was a stunning morning, we grabbed a lift to the top of the pass (4200m) with clear views of the snowcapped volcano Antisan

and screamed down 25km in no time to our lunch stop...where we chilled in sun until all riders were in before commencing 20km convoy ride into Quito - a slow, steady, hot climb...and then we were escorted by local cycling group along the streets of Quito, which were closed off to traffice, no not for us, but a weekly Sunday occurrence for cyclists, runners, rollerbladers, etc, and to our finish line! An overwhelming feeling of relief and happy to have finally finished the epic cycle tour...champagne corks poppingk cameras flashing adn a few short speeches and it was time to head to our hotel to pack up bikesa nd suitcases, rest and then the celebratory dinner and a night on the town!
A once in a lifetime experience where I have met some wonderful people, made new friends both on the cycle tour and on my holidays away from the group, I´ve learned an incredible amount about other cultures and it's been humbling to experience happiness of South Americans living a basic life...
Now I am looking forward to some rest & relaxation in Ecuador... then getting home to spend quality time with family and friends over the holiday season.
Thank you to all who have supported me along the way emotionally and physically and all you fabulous newsy emails, and those who have been generous in supporting Bulungula Incubator!

Peru - the ups and downs!

Since leaving Cusco, it´s been tough! We've been cycling well over 3000m and 4000m reaching our peak of 4600m. We have camped alongside altiplano lakes where the temperatures have dropped below zero and there have been up to 4 days with no showers! So I find myself in Lima, initially shocked by the traffic, grime and size of the city, it was an easy decision to check in to a grand old colonial hotel, enjoy a G&T with ice (without thinking I would get sick), and a comfortable taxi ride to the San Isidro area. I enjoyed a delicious sushi meal (London standards) washed down with a chilled chardonnay, and followed by a session at a hair and nail salon, I feel like I deserve it!! So one might say but that is not the real Peru! Well we have been immersed in the rural life of Peruvians for 2 weeks and I am quite enjoying some western comforts right now! Dammit!

So less about my indulgences and more about the riding in Peru - the ups and downs!

We climbed out of Cusco and cycled through farmland, overtaking pigs being herded on the road, and enjoyed a stunning scenic descent with a brief stop for lunch and then dropping over 1000m into a wall of heat in an isolated river canyon. After crossing the Apurimac river (for the first time) we climbed a further 1000m to our basic hotel (bucket of cold water for a bath).... a tough day with hills, heat and a huge feeling of accomplishment to finish the full 130kms!

The trend continued with ascents of over 1000m, a summit of 4000m (pity the view from the summit was cloudy) and a cool descent through mist and clouds, extremities of hands and feet frozen, and then peeling off layers of clothes at lunch in the sunshine. A further ascent in the afternoon was a gradual and relaxing ride up river (crossing that Apurimac river several times) and a green campsite and cold beer to greet us at the end of the day!
We continued cycling upriver, it felt like a casual ride enjoying the canyon and river, a langorous lunch and stop in one of the larger villages for refreshments. We escaped the worst of a storm, riding through rain for about 10kms, whilst other cyclists had rail, hail and sleet! It was chilling but with a climb ahead, we were soon warm. Camp was at a Toll booth where the guards challenged us to a game of volleyball (closing the one lane in the process) which detracted from the horrendous litter and cold of the exposed camp at 3500m.



One of the most rewarding days for most of the riders was a horrendous day for me. I was motivated and feeling strong, but a few kms into the 14km climb to 4300m, I was exhausted, stopping many times to get my breath, take photos and it was hard to push out the negative thoughts knowing the day ahead had plenty more climbs. I was determined to overcome the exhaustion and after the monster climb we had rolling hills, reaching our peak of tour at 4600m (earlier riders got a taste of whisky left by the crew to celebrate). It felt like the longest and hardest morning and after crawling into lunch late, I called it a day, missing out on further peaks but also strong headwinds in the afternoon. The reward was a stunning campsite next to some lakes at 4400m - there wasnt going to be any relief and disturbed sleep from the altitude - and only stunning once the wind died down, and the flamingoes appeared at sunset. It was also bitterly cold with frost on our tents in the morning!
Our route continued past lakes, descending over 1000m in 50km which entailed some amazing switchbacks, down a scenic river valley and then the road climbed up again - I enjoyed the afternoon section from the truck not wanting to relive the previous days experience - quit while you're ahead was my philosophy! An overnight stop overlooking the valley with vicunas grazing in the distance was peaceful and beautiful unitl the road work vehicles parked next to our tents!
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The next day we descended from 4200m down to Nazca at 600m - an awesome day of cycling (okay, cruising) with farmland, desert and river valleys, stopping at times to look out over the clouds with mountains peaking above them. The fertile Nazca valley and petroglyphs were our reward - best viewed in Cessna 6 seater and then rest at the Nazca Lines hotel pool for the rest of the afternoon! Tough life!



The Nazca to Lima stretch took us back to the Pacific Coast, first passing the Nazca lines (not so easily appreciated at ground level), fertile valley, desert mountain crossing and Pisco grape growing regions. The actual coastline is barren desert terrain, and quite polluted with rubbish dumped on the side of the road, an unidentified smell I call dead dog (sad but true), and an unbelievable number of chicken farms, hence the Peruvian speciality - Pollo y Fritas (Chicken and chips - good healthy grub, unlikely to give you any stomach bugs!)
We stayed at some beautiful places - Paracas - a nature reserve where you can appreciate marine life from boat trips (I was saving myself for Galapagos).

Cerro Azul - rather depressing in rainy conditions but we were treated to a delicious fish bbq and prawn and salsa dinner by resident chef, Miles ably assisted by Hatitia and Alfonso, followed by a few Pisco sours (Peruvian national drink) in town at the smallest bar in the world (well, in my limited experience of bars)! Pucusana was a welcome sight after the dusty, dirty highway ride, a colourful fishing village where we enjoyed fresh ceviche (another Peruvian speciality and so fresh our stomachs would be safe) on the docks!

And then Lima, where I started this epistle and where I choose to experience the wealthy Peru life - shopping, restaurants and even a bit of salsa!!!

Inca Empires - Cusco & Macchu Picchu

The route from Puno to Cusco followed a spectacular river valley, with several groups of pink flamingoes, surrounded by mountains that influenced the weather with build up of thunder clouds that often threatened our path and storms and showers in the distance.

Typical of weather pattern in the altiplano region was clear and warm in the morning and then short torrential downpours in the afternoon. We were heading into rainy season where downpours were brief and drenching as opposed to our day long miserable drizzle and rain in Brasil! We had 3 days cycling 400km to Cusco and the first day brought the typical weather, farmland scenes and distant snowcapped mountains. We stayed in Ayaviri, a small industrial market town with a beautiful cathedral and plaza. Unfortunately it was where I caught a bad case of gastro, so I had to enjoy the next 2 days in a sleepy haze in the truck and missed out on 2 stunning cycling days - some long gradual climbs to 4350m, rolling hills, Inca ruins and traditional villages. It was still stunning as we wizzed past in the truck but not the same feeling with sun on your back and wind in your face, seeing expressions on local faces and smelling fresh mountainous air! There will be more cycling days like these, most important was to get well for Cusco, gourmet, I mean Inca capital of South America and our 2 day Macchu Picchu trip!

Cusco is a fabulous city, whilst the centre is touristy, it is also also beautiful, our hostel has great views over tiled roofs down to main plaza with beautiful church, cathedral and historical buildings. There are some fantastic restaurants, great shopping and good museums although I didnt quite get to the museums! We had 3 rest days in Cusco, the first day was spent walking around the town, enjoying the architecture, cobbled streets, some shopping, mostly just looking and a relaxing lunch.

I then took a 2 day trip to Macchu Piccu "The Lost City of the Incas" with 8 other cyclists from the group. Our trip took us through the scenic Sacred Valley, stopping at a llama farm and textile centre, archaelogical sites of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, and stop for lunch at Urubamba.

The stunning train ride from Ollantaytambo took 1.5hours through the Vilcanote River Valley with stunning views of the river, towering mountains and rain forest.

Arriving in Aquas Caliente, the base from which Macchu Picchu is visited, which is known for its hot springs, and otherwise is filled with hotels, restaurants and shops. We had an early departure in the morning to catch 5.30am bus up to the Macchu Picchu site, the bus snakes up the mountain with the rain forest below and the mountains towering around and as you ascend, you feel you are heading for the clouds. There are many visitors obscuring ones views but this doesnt take away from the impressive Inca site. Built in 15th Century by the Incas for purposes not confirmed (several theories refer to agricultural testing, religious or prison site) and not discovered and hence plundered by the Spanish, but left for rain forest to cover it. Whilst previous explorers came across it, it was brought to the world's attention by American historian Hiram Bingham in 1911. We spent the morning wandering around the ruins and then hiked up Huayna Picchu for some more impressive views of the site. I had always wanted to do the Inca trail and visit Macchu Picchu, and whilst I did not have the time to do the 4 day trail this visit, I now feel more inspired and eager to hike this beautiful region and country and I am certain that Macchu Picchu would be as impressive on a second visit!

Bolivia - escape to the Rain forest

I left La Paz feeling I hadnt given it a chance! A large sprawling city built in a valley at 3600m with 2mil inhabitants, it is the highest capital city in the world. As we wandered through the cobbled steep streets, to coin a phrase, "it was an assault to the senses" - one can be overcome by the diesel fumes, sewerage and human excrement smells, but also by the crumbling Spanish colonial architecture, the traditionally dressed women selling everything from llama foetuses (good housewarming present), to snickers to fake North Face jackets, not to mention the llama wool jerseys, bright textiles and internet cafes! We were stayiung near "Gringo Alley" so plenty of opportunity to book a tour (jungle, trek, bike the worlds most dangerous road), find a hostal, restaurant or decide on which souveneir to buy (all the stalls sold the same jerseys, bags, toys, jewellery etc). Finding something unique was difficult and came with a hefty price tag!
From a cultural perspecitve, I did manage a visit to the Coca Museum - quite fascinating history and basic exhibitions of the story of the coca leaf and the only musuem open on Sun arvie!
In pursuit of quieter time and to get back in touch with nature, I decided to take a side trip to Coroico, 100kms from La Paz, set in lush tropical mountainous area - advertised for its tranquility and so I had set my mind on a relaxing day by the pool at a quiet hostel with beautiful gardens. On arrival in Coroico, I was pleasantly surprised by annual festival in main plaza with several bands, dancing with men, women and children in traditional colourful costume and copious amounts of beer being consumed!


As a storm and ominous sky was threatening my lazing by the pool, I opted for a cheapy hotel and settled into sheltered ringside seats of procession at pizzeria on plaza and joined in the celebration with several ice cold beers! The festivities ground to a halt when torrential downpours started but I was quite comfortable and dry. A little rain wasnt goint to sopt the party, once the rain dissipated, the bands and dancing resumed. Bolivians sure know how to party!

I had decided to take some time out from the cycle group and set off on a 3 day Jungle tour which entailed cruising down a number of rivers including the Beni river whcih feeds into Amazon basin, walks in rain forest and camping on the banks of the river. We were a small international group of 11 gringos and 7 Bolivian staff. We first started with a long drive along a continuation of the "Death Highway" with stunning scenery and dizzying heights. The boat was a long boat with wooden planks as seats but quite comfortable for appreciating the flora, fauna and birdlife along the river banks and suitable for the shallow sections of the river and odd rapid!



We enjoyed several walks in the rain forest, cooled off with swims in river and waterfall and a highlight was a canopy zip line tour that was exhilirating once I overcame my fear of heights suspended on platforms 200m above ground, the scenery looking over the forest canopy was spectacular! We cruised along Madidi National Park where there are puma, jaguar, wild boar, armiadillo, etc but unfortunately they did not appear for us, only tarantula, capybarra (large rodent like creatures), butterflies, frogs and plenty of birds. Waking up to the sounds of the rainforest was amazing....reminded me of relaxation tapes one hears enjoying a massage / bliss, but no masseur on tour!

We ended in Rurrenabaque where we stayed one night and enjoyed a night with new friends all of which were heading for Pamapas tours in Amazon basin whilst I caught an early morning flight on a 19 seater plant - a surprisingly smooth ride back up to La Paz. I had a few hours to spare and managed to enjoy some more sights, squares and museums (Ethnology a highlight) before catching bus for 7 hr trip to Puno, Peru to join up with cycle group.
I was feeling quite sad to leave Bolivia, a beautiful country with friendly people and stunning scenery and still somewhat untouchedby mass tourism and therefore cheap!