We crossed the border after a few shorter days and then entered stunning rain forest terrain! One of my favourite sections of the tour started from Loja after a typical rest day (you know the drill by now), we had expected roadworks based on last year´s scout but the road was newly paved and whilst we started with a steep ascent it was through Podocarpus National park, known for its diversity of flora. Several bright flowers, and trees and bushes in every shade of green imaginable was appreciated from the road. It was slightly overcast which helped to keep temperatures down and we ascended along escarpment into cloud forests before a well deserved descent down to river bed which made for a leisurely afternoon ride to camp.
Our route continued along river and beside forest with the next day passing several small villages and with resultant visible destruction of natural forest for agriculture - cows and fruit farming most noticable. The 'highway' turned to dirt for about 100km and the first afternoon we covered about 20km in blistering heat with frequent stops at roadside waterfalls to cool off!
The road turned to mud and rock the next day after heavy rainfalls overnight (not uncommon in Equador) which made the next 50km really tough going. Starting a day on a steep rocky muddy hill is not easy, it is also difficult to imagine finishing a day in these conditions. The scenery is our biggest reward and I wasnt tiring of lush rain forest surroundings.
A drenching hour long downpour got me on the descent and it was pretty damn cold and then at lunch we had a find drizzle yet the staff still presented a nourishing feast of local tropical fruits, fresh bread, cheese and ham (a typical cycling day lunch)!
The next couple of days cycling I appreciated the rain forest views from the comfort of a bus (in a few hours) as I was going ahead of the group to the next rest day at Puyo where I was meeting up with my friend, Bruce, who was joining us for the last week of cycling. We had a few days relaxing in Puyo by the river and a day trip to Banos through the stunning Pastaza river valley (a tributary of the Amazon) where one can partake in several adventure activities or relax in thermal springs. We opted for a "go kart" ride to the the outskirts of the town with spectacular views of the volcano... a somewhat bumpy ride and some pushing required as we tested its power on hills we probably shouldn't have been driving on!
The last few days cycling... it didn´t seem to get any easier, even after >4 months in the saddle! First the weather turned foul...camping in the rain and cycling in the rain is not my favourite activity and no amount of cycling rain gear would keep us dry with 2 hour downpour, one could barely see the road and we needed to take care not to be swept away by water flowing like a river down the road! We then started climbing with spectacular views of the rain forest and volcanoes in the distance and so altitude started to become a big factor again. On top of that we were fighting colds and our campsite on that night was a football field...well we had to move to the schoolyard as the field was waterlogged!
Our last night on the road we spent in Pampallacta, a popular thermal springs weekend spot for quitenos (people from Quito) and a wonderful way to soak tired muscles, emerging from the baths warmed to the bone and relaxed! At this point we had 60kms of cycling left and there wre mixed feeling amongst the group. Many looked forward to reuniting with friends and family and getting back home to normal life whilst at the same time wondering hom much we would miss being on a bike every day, experiencing new sights, smells, tastes and cultures, missing our cycle companions and daily routine. And even though at times we have been frustrated, irritated, bored and even dissatisfied with our lot! But one could not ignore the feeling of excitement of having travelled 12000km across 7 couties in South America, up 95000m of elevation, peaking at 4600m altitude, over mountain passes, across deserts, salt flats, on beaches, and up the magnificent coastline, through rainforests, past waterfalls, altiplano lakes, ski slopes, volcanoes, Inca ruins, petroglyphs.... across countless rivers... past llamas, vicunas, flamingoes, pelicans, goats, sheep, cows, horses... on dirt, sandy, sealed and tar roads, and camping on side of highway, at toll booths, on beach, in desert in football fields.... in rain, sleet and wind! Phew, it has been an epic, it has been fun and it has been challenging.
But I digress, the last day was a stunning morning, we grabbed a lift to the top of the pass (4200m) with clear views of the snowcapped volcano Antisan
and screamed down 25km in no time to our lunch stop...where we chilled in sun until all riders were in before commencing 20km convoy ride into Quito - a slow, steady, hot climb...and then we were escorted by local cycling group along the streets of Quito, which were closed off to traffice, no not for us, but a weekly Sunday occurrence for cyclists, runners, rollerbladers, etc, and to our finish line! An overwhelming feeling of relief and happy to have finally finished the epic cycle tour...champagne corks poppingk cameras flashing adn a few short speeches and it was time to head to our hotel to pack up bikesa nd suitcases, rest and then the celebratory dinner and a night on the town!
A once in a lifetime experience where I have met some wonderful people, made new friends both on the cycle tour and on my holidays away from the group, I´ve learned an incredible amount about other cultures and it's been humbling to experience happiness of South Americans living a basic life...
Now I am looking forward to some rest & relaxation in Ecuador... then getting home to spend quality time with family and friends over the holiday season.
Thank you to all who have supported me along the way emotionally and physically and all you fabulous newsy emails, and those who have been generous in supporting Bulungula Incubator!
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