Arriving in Irkutsk at 7.30am, I was glad to have Lena meet me as 100's of taxi drivers descend on you once you exit the station. We needed to wait for another train so had breakfast - pancakes (nyum) and coffee and then Ben (Belgium) & Robson (Brazilian) from London arrived and we drove 70km to Litsvyanka, a village on Lake Baikal. Checked into a lovely hotel with bedroom, bathroom, lounge and a view of the lake - very nice after train! Another breakfast with omelette and pancakes - a common feature in meals and George I think times have moved on in Russia, food seems to be really good. 
Lake Baikal is the oldest (25mil years), deepest (1.6km) and largest in water volume (23000km squared - I think) fresh water lake in the world. It is home to many species of fish including omul (I tasted it and it was lovely) and __________which is where famous black caviar is from (Apparently the taste experience is orgasmic... I have yet to have a tasting!) as well as fresh water seals - very cute - we saw them in the museum/aquarium. The lake is also 636kms long and where we were only 40km wide and so we had a lovely view of snow capped mountains. It had snowed 2 days prior and the ice had finally melted 2 weeks earlier (gets up to 1m thick in winter) and as the temperature of water was only 0.4deg celsius and on the day I was supposed to scuba dive the temp outside was 5deg celsius, I am afraid I wissed out! Of course I berated myself constantly but my health is more improtant than an "I did it" badge!
I enjoyed a day hike in the forest and along the lake with picnic with local guide that was really interesting and quite strenuous. And then a day of nothing planned (makes a change) except internet, picnic on the beach, dip in the lake (only to my bum) but legend has it that if you go to your knees then it adds 12 years to your life and 7 years for face and hands... I look forward to a long healthy life. An expensive coffee and pastry (tasty fish pies, fruit pastries) at the central cafe ... a little piece of heaven! 
Lake Baikal is the oldest (25mil years), deepest (1.6km) and largest in water volume (23000km squared - I think) fresh water lake in the world. It is home to many species of fish including omul (I tasted it and it was lovely) and __________which is where famous black caviar is from (Apparently the taste experience is orgasmic... I have yet to have a tasting!) as well as fresh water seals - very cute - we saw them in the museum/aquarium. The lake is also 636kms long and where we were only 40km wide and so we had a lovely view of snow capped mountains. It had snowed 2 days prior and the ice had finally melted 2 weeks earlier (gets up to 1m thick in winter) and as the temperature of water was only 0.4deg celsius and on the day I was supposed to scuba dive the temp outside was 5deg celsius, I am afraid I wissed out! Of course I berated myself constantly but my health is more improtant than an "I did it" badge!
I enjoyed a day hike in the forest and along the lake with picnic with local guide that was really interesting and quite strenuous. And then a day of nothing planned (makes a change) except internet, picnic on the beach, dip in the lake (only to my bum) but legend has it that if you go to your knees then it adds 12 years to your life and 7 years for face and hands... I look forward to a long healthy life. An expensive coffee and pastry (tasty fish pies, fruit pastries) at the central cafe ... a little piece of heaven!
It was really nice to be in one place for 3 nights ( I was starting to get bored, got to do things/move on...and then i chilled out and ejnjoyed the rest and went for a few runs along the lakeside)...didn't get to do traditional bhanya...need a partner in crime to enjoy all the trimmings....ie vodka!
Everything definitely caters for Russians with little English spoken and actually not many tourists around (could be still too early in season). If I were to come back here it would definitely be in a group and either late in summer when warmer or in winter to take advantage of snow, ice and vodka!
Everything definitely caters for Russians with little English spoken and actually not many tourists around (could be still too early in season). If I were to come back here it would definitely be in a group and either late in summer when warmer or in winter to take advantage of snow, ice and vodka!
How's Lake Baikal? Always wanted to go there...
ReplyDeleteHi Alex
ReplyDeleteLake Baikal was awesome, but you have to go in summer! Especially if you want to dive. I am afraid 0deg celsius water was far too cold for this southern lass! I would also choose to spend more time going to island on lake. an alternative winter destination for skiing, sledging, vodka drinking. Otherwise a pretty quiet spot but interesting to watch the locals hangout!