Hue was the capital from early 1800 to 1945 (Communist government established in Hanoi) during theNguyen dynasty who dominated southern Vietnam from 17-19th century.
In the Vietnam War, the city was damaged considerably from American bombings and after the war, many of the historic features of Huế were neglected, being seen as "relics from the feudal regime", but there has since been a change of policy, and some parts of the historic city have been restored.
A beautifully maintained and restored attraction is the Citadel and Forbidden City. I spent a few sweltering hours in the Citadel - a large, walled area north of the Perfume River. Inside the citadel was a forbidden city where only the concubines, emperors, and those close enough to them were granted access, the punishment for trespassing being death.
In the Vietnam War, the city was damaged considerably from American bombings and after the war, many of the historic features of Huế were neglected, being seen as "relics from the feudal regime", but there has since been a change of policy, and some parts of the historic city have been restored.
A beautifully maintained and restored attraction is the Citadel and Forbidden City. I spent a few sweltering hours in the Citadel - a large, walled area north of the Perfume River. Inside the citadel was a forbidden city where only the concubines, emperors, and those close enough to them were granted access, the punishment for trespassing being death.
Braving the traffic, I cycled over one of the many bridges to the north area, enjoying the diversity of the market, getting lost on roads in the forbidden city (most of which is inhabited by local townsfolk and farmers), and indeed taking a few wrong turns as I was enticed by beautiful buildings or cute kids, but being very politely asked to turn around/go the other way!
There are hundreds of buildings, for the Emperors, their wives, guards, servants, concubines, elephants, etc, etc They are in different states of repair but on the whole I was mesmerised by the beauty of the buildings, architecturally and artistically. I was hoping that I wouldn't tire of their beauty as I am sure there are many more temples to come (Laos and China!). And they are set in magnificent walled gardens. Once in the complex, one is literally left alone (as long as you don't stray as I had earlier in the day!) to enjoy the many buildings and for a mere 50,000 dong, it was the cheapest and most worthwhile tourist attraction in Vietnam.
The more important the emperor, the larger the tomb, as I discovered when I opted for a personal motorbike ride to the 3 most important Nguyen leaders during this period, I loved the tombs of Minh Mang for the beautiful architecture and stunning gardens and lakes,Khai Dinh for the beautiful mosaic art inside the buildings and Tu Doc again for the stunning gardens.
Hue was also known for its cuisine, well, this was the real disappointment for me. I found a proliferation of restaurants catering for the western palate, and very few local cuisine spots (except the market stalls). I did enjoy a traditional meal in a restaurant that trains under privileged children, and was not as enamoured by the food as I was in Hoi An. The speciality of the region was shrimps in glutenous mass wrapped in banana leaves, and shrimp paste in rice paper wrapped in banana leaves, both served with a chilli sauce, which can completely overpower the taste but not hide the texture!
I should not fail to mention the DMZ for any of you war fiends out there - a system of tunnels and museums known as the Demilitarisation Zone - I did not visit the site for a number of reasons, lack of historical interest, a full day out, I have seen underground cities before and avoiding an overzealous tourist!
Hue was also known for its cuisine, well, this was the real disappointment for me. I found a proliferation of restaurants catering for the western palate, and very few local cuisine spots (except the market stalls). I did enjoy a traditional meal in a restaurant that trains under privileged children, and was not as enamoured by the food as I was in Hoi An. The speciality of the region was shrimps in glutenous mass wrapped in banana leaves, and shrimp paste in rice paper wrapped in banana leaves, both served with a chilli sauce, which can completely overpower the taste but not hide the texture!
I should not fail to mention the DMZ for any of you war fiends out there - a system of tunnels and museums known as the Demilitarisation Zone - I did not visit the site for a number of reasons, lack of historical interest, a full day out, I have seen underground cities before and avoiding an overzealous tourist!
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