I had received an offer I could not refuse - a bike and a flat to use as a base - after 3.5months of moving every few days - it was a welcome respite!And I needed to start some serious training, and what a great way to explore the islands of Croatia. It was going to be a first, Touring on a Bicycle, but I had a good bike, panniers, a map,a proposed route for 3 days and a sense of adventure!
I first took a bus from Zagreb to Rijeka and then cycled along coastal road to Krk island and onto Krk town for first overnight stop - initially a little industrial but some stunning scenery with lush green vegetation on the islands and great roads. Found a great apartment run by friendly family and short walk into old town set on a marina and enjoyed fresh fish in square next to church to sound of music, churchbells, seagulls and under full moon.
On second day I felt like I spent more time on ferry or waiting for one rather than on the bicycle, crossing over a relatively rough patch of water (for Croatia) to Rab island and then short cycle to Rab town, another interesting town set on a marina. Caught a water taxi to Pag island - a better option that route via mainland....disappointed to leave Rab as no time to explore..
The road on Pag was quiet and I had tome to appreciate views to sea, mainland and take in insland life - pletny of sheep and the most incredibly old, large, knobbly olive trees.
I passed another lone cyclist, an older German who was walking up hills but pushing on through to Pag town despite the headwind. In a week moment, I glided down a side road to a tiny picturesque marina village and settled into an apartment in a friendly old couples house on water, fascinating conversation with them speaking Croatian and me English. Loving Croatia - the coast, marinas, fresh fish and good local wine!
Third day, I woke to rain and wind and my hosts tried to convince me to relax and wait but I was itching to go (ok not that desparately as I set off at 9am into wind but managed to get to shelter in Pag (great downhill, at last) before heavens opened and then hard slog to Zadar - with a few stops along way for lunch in local villages and for drinks! Wind did not abate and dust storms in Zadar - happy to get on bus and exhausted slept most way back to Zagreb.
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