Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Moscow & St Petersberg




Moscow

I arrived in pouring rain and was taken to hotel quite far out of city centre. With a few hours to spare before city tour, I visited the hotel gym - much needed after being on a train and a normal thing to do rather than rushing to see the next sight! Lena was my city tour guide passionate about history, art and theatre and her enthusiasm rubbed off on me despite the rain. She showed me how to navigate the underground system (phenomenal in terms of size, depth and decor), orientation around the Kremlin, theatre and art museum districts and interesting stories on history, culture and war. I visited the State Tretyakov Art museum (insight into Russian art), a ballet performance at Stanislavski theatre as the Bolshoi theatre was colosed for renovations - it was quite mesmerising and comprised a collection of performances from different shows with some famous ballet performers. It was interesting to meet a Moscovian - there are noticable difference between Russians from different parts of the country, and I had been warned, quite beligerent, opinionated and serious...but I think you need to be if you live in Moscow. But Lena was incredibly knowledgeable, well travelled and worldy wise.

I spent a day at the Kremlin (functioning political centre with evidence of meetings underway - hopefully Medvedev was resolving the EU gas crisis issues) and disappointed not to be able to enter many of the buildings and churches, it was still amazing to wander around and take in city views and external mosaics of bulbous gold topped churches. I visited the State Armoury Musuem - the oldest museum in Moscow, with displays of jewels, gems, icons, crosses, coronation robes, thrones, carriages, expensive clergy vestments, Byzantine cameos, Faberge Easter eggs, weaponry, armor, jewelry etc and then strolled around Red Square, unfortunately St Basils catedral was closed, Visited History Museum more to escape from the rain than the content with limited English write ups and best bit was the free internet!! Moscow is incredibly expensive, hotels, food, drinks, museums, shopping etc so I was really pleased with a freebie.

I decided to escape the city sights and visit the famous bhanya , an experience never to be forgotten. It is a bathhouse separated for men and women, and alas no pictures to show, and I visited the oldest one, Sandunovski Baths. Much like a day at the spa, but without my girlfriends, and a somewhat weird experience with a varied bunch of Russian women....fragrant suana, cool to freezing cold baths and a chillout room with restaurant and beauty therapy.





And then it was back on the train again to St Petersberg, an uneventful overnight 12 hour train journey......
St Petersberg







WOW

St Petersberg has to be one of the highlights of the trip, and certainly the best experience in Russia! I had met Olga and Sergey at a Breakfast in a hotel in Hue, Vietnam and was delighted to meet up with them again in St P. Wonderful hosts, lining up incredible experiences both touristy and non-touristy that made my trip memorable. And really getting an opportunity to talk about Russia, history, culture, the world and our travels. I was also pleased to meet up with Elvan from the first leg of the Trans Siberian, great opportunity to catch up over Soviet champagne and a cool beer on the pavement cafes! The Russians do like to drink and at night the streets are lined with locals drinking (alot).
There is so much to say about St Petersberg, but I won´t bore you with the minute details, just share some of the special moments:
1) Giselle ballet at the Marynsky theatre - a stunning baroque theatre and excellent production
2) St Peterhof - a wonderful day out (and gorgeous weather) an hour by train with stunning fountains, gardens and palace interior.
3) Walking along canals, through Summer garden, stopping for beers, local delicacies (pies, ice cream!)
4) The Hermitage - impressive buildings and amazing art collection - I focussed on the French and Italian art - so inspiring to see amazing collections of Da Vinci, Picasso, Monet etc etc
5) Church of the Spilt Blood - amazing mosaic interior
6) Staying up to witness the lifting of the bridges (at 2am !) with 1000´s of tourists and locals
7) A visit to a local Tourist College and meet with some of the English students of Olga, and enjoying a tea party and chatting to the students about travel - again inspiring and fantastic opportunity to meet with local Russians.
8) Festival time - the Russians love to party in the streets and an interesting air show by a French group of artists!
You just have to visit this vibrant city!!


















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